Climate technology start-up Samsara Eco has unveiled a groundbreaking enzyme capable of indefinitely recycling nylon 6 — a synthetic fibre commonly used in textiles and automotive applications.
The innovation furthers the Canberra-based company’s mission to tackle plastic waste in the fashion industry and accelerate the shift toward a circular economy.
Founded in 2021, Samsara Eco has already raised more than $150 million and collaborated with the Australian National University to refine its recycling process.
Unlike traditional recycling, which degrades plastic over time, Samsara’s technology breaks plastics down into their original molecular building blocks, allowing them to re-enter the supply chain in their purest form. This approach displaces the need for virgin fossil fuel-based materials.
Revolutionary recycling process
Founder and CEO Paul Riley describes the process as “true recycling”, which can handle mixed plastics — often a stumbling block for conventional recycling systems.
“We can take a footy jersey, a bottle, put it through our process and in about 90 to 120 minutes, you end up with the original building blocks of that plastic,” Riley said.
These monomers can then be reused without degradation, enabling what Riley calls “infinite recycling”.
Samsara’s latest enzyme, targeting nylon 6, is part of its broader effort to create enzymes for various plastics using machine learning algorithms. This capability positions Samsara to tackle a wide range of mixed plastic waste, including garments typically composed of blended fabrics.
Sustainability at scale
The environmental impact of Samsara’s technology is significant, with an estimated 92 million tonnes of textiles discarded annually. By offering a recycling solution for these materials, Samsara aims to reduce waste sent to landfills or incineration and lower the reliance on virgin plastics.
“We firmly believe you should only recycle where the carbon footprint of your recycling is less than virgin production,” Riley said.
This dual focus on waste reduction and minimising carbon emissions is central to the company’s mission.
Global expansion and challenges ahead
With plans to expand operations into Europe and North America, Samsara is also building an innovation hub in Canberra and exploring partnerships for commercial recycling plants capable of processing 20,000 to 50,000 tonnes of polymers annually.
Each facility, however, requires significant investment, with costs estimated at $80 million to $100 million.
Backed by prominent investors including Main Sequence, Woolworths, Temasek and Lululemon, Samsara remains confident in its ability to scale.
However, Riley acknowledges the challenges of funding such capital-intensive infrastructure, emphasizing the need for continued support.
A balanced approach to recycling
While Samsara’s advancements mark a step forward for the circular economy, critics like Judith Enck, founder of Beyond Plastics and former US Environmental Protection Agency official, cautions against over-reliance on chemical recycling. Enck advocates for reducing waste at the source and using less packaging.
Riley agrees that recycling efforts must be both economically and environmentally viable.
“It’s a dual problem that needs to be addressed, and that’s what our focus is. Is not just on the waste. Circularity is incredibly important to us as well.
“Our latest breakthrough makes it possible to believe future textiles will be made from waste and excess, not fossil fuels,” Riley said, envisioning a future where the fashion industry embraces true sustainability.
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